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Beauty of Zardozi |
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Hyderabad is famous for a lot of things, like Irani chai, Biryani, Pearls and Embroidery. The 'karchob ka kaam' is one such example which is missed out by a lot of people when referring Hyderabad. Also called Zardozi, it is the art of making beautiful embroidery with gold or silver 'taars' or thin wires. The Hyderabadi craftsmen have always been experts in 'karchob ki kaam'. During the age of the Nizam and the Jungs, karchob work coupled with cutwork was the only kind of work respectable people would be seen wearing. Now-a-days however, by and large, people prefer the tested Zari, which is reasonably priced and does not blacken or dull with time.
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Yet, even in this age of information highways, there is a blind spot where Hyderabadi handwork is concerned. One can find 'karchob ka kaam' handwork in Lad Bazaar. We tend to talk of the 'karigars' [people who have been trained to do embroidery with Zari] of Lucknow and Delhi when we talk of dexterity or real craftsmanship. The local designers proudly display the work done by craft men from other parts of India. It seems to go without saying that unless the 'karigar' is from Jaipur or Farrukhabad, the kaam is mediocre. |
Initially an Egyptian art, the 'karchob ka kaam' came to India with the Arab tradesmen. However, it was in Hyderabad that it took roots and flourished. From the ages, all the designs were made freehand by the 'karigars', and any workman worth his art eschews even today all the fancy modern measuring devices. Even though over time, many other techniques of Zari work were incorporated into Hyderabadi handwork, it was the 'karchob ka kaam' that remained exclusively in its domain.
In 'karchob ka kaam' the threads were invariably of real gold and silver. The combination of both the precious threads, called 'dhoop - chaun' [sunshade] was in vogue. The effect was as beautiful as the name given to it. That these dresses are still treasured by some families speaks volumes for the quality of workmanship that was prevalent then. One such gorgeous piece is the 'khada dupatta' that belongs to the fazal Nawazjung family. Made of light pink tissue woven with pure silver threads, its border in 'dhoop chaun' is of a pattern that is indescribably beautiful. The border is almost a foot wide and that explains it's 12-kg of weight.
Today, though you can't get 'sancha' [made with real and precious gold or silver] tissue, the kaam that was done on such dresses is still within reach. And for those who can afford it, the sancha work can also be replicated by the few remaining gifted karigars. The continuation of and development in 'karchob ka kaam', is indicative of this healthy respect for tradition. Sulthan Bhai of one of the oldest establishments in Lad Bazar says 'Zaridozi has remained unchanged since centuries. People still glamour for the same kind of work. Even new patterns have an old familiar look'. As for 'sancha' work, he believes that it is only the prohibitive cost that prevents people from going for it. How ever by and large, people prefer the tested Zari, which is reasonably priced and does not blacken or dull with time.
The travails of time do take their toll however. And though we can be grateful for Karchob ka kam being available for the future generations and us there is work that has been lost forever.
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